Yay or Nay for Chardonnay?

Chardonnay is a controversial grape variety, but what is life without a little controversy? I find that opinions about Chardonnay can be polarising. Some say it is the bane of their existence. Others absolutely adore it.

Wine consumption trends indicate that consumers are shifting towards fresher and lighter styles of wine. Interestingly enough, some people wouldn’t consider Chardonnay a wine that fits that description. In fact, several wine drinkers outside the industry have often described chardonnay to me as “wines that are heavy and not very fresh".

I am a Chardonnay lover/worshiper and a firm believer that there is a Chardonnay for everyone. Do you like lighter and mineral wine? How about a fruity wine with notes of tropical fruit? or perhaps you prefer a buttery, nutty wine that is rounder and complex? Yes, Chardonnay can be all of that.

The fruit notes found on Chardonnay can range from citrus (lime, lemon) and green fruit (apple, pear), to stone fruit (peach) or tropical fruit (melon, pineapple).

The versatility of Chardonnay allows for a plethora of wines. Winemakers see it as a playground to unleash their creativity, from fermentation vessels to ageing decisions and let us not forget about terroir. The possibilities are endless.

Many factors influence the character of a wine, one of which is the climate where the grapes are grown. Chardonnay is known for producing outstanding wines in cool, moderate and warm climates.

I want to share three wines that have blown my mind. These wines, although very different, share 3 things in common:

• They are all made by 100% Chardonnay grapes grown in cool climate (regions with grape growing season with average temperatures of 16.5°C or below),

• The alcohol level on them is 12.5% abv or below,

• They are complex wines with well-balanced minerality and acidity.

  
  

L’Ancienne 2021. Lightfoot & Wolfville. 12.5% abv. Nova Scotia, Canada.

The grapes from this wine come from a single vineyard located near a small arm of the sea called Minas Basin in Nova Scotia’s prized Bay of Fundy. The vineyard is certified organic and biodynamic, and its location means that the grapes benefit from constant sea breeze. Here, the Chardonnay grapes are picked by hand and then fermented in barrel with wild yeast and undergo full malolactic conversion in used French oak. The wine is aged for 20 months on the lees in oak (25% of it is new).

This wine from Lightfoot & Wolfville has a seductive nose with notes of apple, lemon curd, acacia, vanilla and toasted nuts. This is a dry wine with medium to medium+ acidity, smooth and round in the mouth with nice minerality on the finish (remember those sea breezes?)

Previously, the still wines I’ve tasted from Canada at trade events were leaner whites and reds. L’Ancienne 2021 had depth and complexity while showing a mineral note with a hint of salinity that really surprised me.

Bonkers Zombie Robot Alien Monsters From The Future Ate My Brain (sur lie). MV. Sugrue & Downs. 12.5% abv. West Sussex, England.

The name is as unique as the wine inside the bottle, a multi-vintage Chardonnay wine that uses a solera system.

The grapes for this wine come from two vineyards, Mount Harry & Coldharbour which have chalk & flint soil. There are two vintages in this wine that experience different time in oak. The 2022 vintage is aged for 18 months in small barriques of new oak and the 2023 vintage sees 6 months in older barrel.

It seemed like earlier this year, this wine was all over social media in UK & Ireland and trust me, justifiably so. I didn’t know what to expect the first time I tasted it, but one thing is for sure, I wasn’t expecting this level of complexity and it blew my mind (or ate my brain?)

This wine has many layers, it is buttery, creamy, savoury with honey & nutty notes. It has a flinty character that balances its richness (remember that chalk & flint soil?) I’m in love.

I was lucky enough to meet Dermot from Sugrue South Downs during a Masterclass about the impact of today’s erratic weather patterns in viticulture, he is a legend!

Champagne Bastogne-Frérot. Blanc de Blancs. NV Brut Reserve. 12% abv. Nogent l’Abbesse, France.

I couldn’t talk about Chardonnay without including Champagne. The reason why I chose this wine is that I’ve always considered myself a Blanc de Noir type of gal with a deep passion for Pinot Noir-dominated champagne. To my surprise, I was absolutely in love with this champagne made from 100% Chardonnay grapes grown in Nogent l’Abbesse, a village belonging to Monts de Berru located in Montagne de Reims in Champagne.

An interesting fact is that the area of Montagne de Reims is well known for its top-quality Pinot Noir, actually 40% of the vines planted there are Pinot Noir. The village of Nogent l’Abbesse (within Montagne de Reims) is planted with 99% of Chardonnay that grows in chalk and limestone soil.

This champagne has a delicate mousse with notes of almonds, brioche and a savoury note with nice acidity. It is creamy on the palate with subtle toasty notes balancing structure and freshness. Overall, it is complex, elegant, savoury with a long finish. A true delight.

I would describe all three wines as elegant and worthy representatives of cool climate Chardonnay. They are generous wines that strike a fine balance between richness and structure. I tasted the L’Ancienne 2021 and Bonkers MV at separate trade masterclasses. The Bastogne-Frérot champagne was a special gift from a dear friend from France. (Merci Cécile!)

My journey in the wine industry has allowed me to taste diverse styles of wine and I find myself drawn to winemaking and character more than a specific style or grape variety. But I must confess, I have developed a soft spot for Chardonnay and I am invested in this love affair with cool climate Chardonnay.

What is your opinion on Chardonnay, Is it a Yay (yes) or Nay (no) for you?

For me, the answer is clear: I am team ChardonnYAY.